So this week I'm focusing on Vienna's architecture, and I could only start it with a picture of the Vienna Secession Building designed by Joseph Maria Olbrich as an architectural manifesto for the secession movement. It is the home of one of the most important works by the most well known artist of the Secession movement, Gustav Klimt's Beethoven Frieze. A 34 meter wide, 2 meter tall painting homage to celebrated composer Ludwig Van Beethoven, that illustrates human desire for happiness in a suffering and tempestuous world in which one contends not only with external evil forces but also with internal weaknesses. Like all other work by Klimt that features extensive use of gold leaf, no reproduction will do it justice, and must be experience in person. 

A more conventional subject for a post about Viennese Architecture is the Albertina Palace, which houses one of the world's finest art collections since 1805. The palace itself, a fine example of the Neoclassical style, was built in 1744 for Count Silva-Tarouca and given as a gift to Duke Albert from which derives the name. Over the centuries it has been enlarged and updated, and by 2003 underwent a complete renovation, with the most dramatic addition being installed in 2004. Architect Hans Hollein created the spectacular 64-metre titanium wing shaped roof which has become one of its most recognizable feature.

Less well known, and slightly harder to find, is the Regensburger Hof building and the Gutenberg statue in front of it. This site was home to one of the most impressive 15th-century buildings in Vienna, that was demolished in 1896 to give its place to the Orendi department store in 1897. The building was designed by Franz von Neumann, which had a long running enmity with Otto Wagner who was associated with the Vienna Secession group, and was clearly more interested in propagating the classical forms of the 19th century. In the center of the buildings facade you can find a life-size statue of Emperor Frederick III. In front of this building is the cast bronze Gutenberg Denkmal by Hans Bitterlich, and unveiled in December 1900.

Another great example of the variety and quality of the architecture in Vienna is the  Schmetterlinghaus, The Imperial Butterfly House. Located on the Burggarten palace gardens, part of the Hofburg Royal Palace, just 200m from the Opera House, this is one of the most beautiful Art Noveau palm houses in the world. It is said that Emperor Franz Josef I and Sisi, the Empress of Austria,  found  tranquility and quiet inside the building surrounded by around 400 live, free flying butterflies. The main entrance of the house, pictured here, is ornamented with statues and ceiling has a lovely patina. If you're happen to be around there on a sunny day, the Palmenhaus cafe is a great place to have a snack with views to the garden. Or go at evening for a more upscale experience on their brasserie.

One of the things I would recommend doing, in most cities you visit, but specially in Vienna, is to have a wander around the streets of the historic city center. Here, go for a walk from the Schmetterlinghaus, or the Albertina, towards Stephansplatz. And keep looking up at the buildings, not just the shops at ground level. You can find lots of wonderful details of the historic buildings that flank these streets. One that I really liked was at Stephansplatz, and you can read Zum Goldenen Becher, which translates to The Golden Mug. The amount of details painted on that small piece of the facade is extraordinary, and most people will just walk by not noticing it.

You can also find great looking shops, that by now are no longer what is advertised on the original facade, but you can still trace it back to the original purpose of the building. In this case, Lobmeyr is still operating from the same place. This family run business, now it its sixth generation, has been providing the excellent crystal products since 1823. 

Below you can find a couple of detail pictures of the Hofburg Palace. Built in the 13th century and expanded in the centuries since, the palace has been the seat of power of the Habsburg dynasty rulers, and today the official residence and workplace of the President of Austria. It was the principal imperial winter residence, as Schönbrunn Palace was the summer residence.
On the right is the main gate on the Michaelerplatz, this area of the palace is known as the St. Michael's Wing and was finished in 1893. The facade on this side is heavily ornamented with sculptures and gold details. On the left is a detail of the Amelienburg wing on the Internal Castle Square, that shows a 'modern' mechanical clock above a sundial.

Probably the most important sights in the city of Vienna reside on the Ringstrasse. This 5.3km long road provides enough space for numerous monumental buildings, which were built during the period of historicism between the 1860s and the 1890s, and created under the orders of Emperor Franz Joseph. 

One of the great buildings here is the Burgtheater, in the style of New Baroque according to designs by Gottfried Semper and Karl von Hasenauer, it was finished in 1888.
This theater, with its distinguished company, has held a leading position in the dramatic arts of the German-speaking countries. For the season 2014/15, the Burgtheater was awarded "Theater of the Year" by the German-language journal "Theater heute".

Just on the other side of the road is the Rathaus, Vienna's City Hall. This imposing neo-Gothic building, the most important secular example of this style in the city, was designed by Friedrich von Schmidt who had been the architect of the Cathedral of Cologne. Built between 1872 and 1883, the main tower has a height of 97.9m, topped by the "Iron Rathausmann". This allowed to circumvent the Emperor's order that the building could not be taller that the nearby Votive Church, whose tower measures 99m. On the right is the main facade of the building, viewed from the Ringstrasse, and below is the also impressive view of the back of this extraordinary building.

This week has been a very extensive post, but if you love architecture, there is always more to say and share when talking about Vienna. Next week will be a shorter post, totally dedicated to the legendary Vienna Opera House.
And now to sleep, see you next week,
APN